St. Mary: beautiful coastlines and much bananas...

Directly east of Ocho Rios the White River flows into the sea. In the mean time we are driving on the A3 (In St. Ann's Bay the A1 is deflecting to the south, direction Spanish Town), but still fixed along the coast. After crossing the White River we enter St. Mary, the fifth parish on our round trip.

Looks greener
Rather soon it will strike you that St. Mary is a good deal rockier then the parishes that we visited up to here. The mountain ridges, in fact spurs of the Blue Mountains, here and there go as far as the coastline and the many bays with magnificent views give the region a romantic look. White beaches are hidden between the cliffs.
Also attracting attention is that the region here seems far more green than elsewhere. That fits in because the easterly part of the island is considered as the greenest part of Jamaica. Relatively most of the rain is falling here and in easterly Jamaica the tropical rain woods are situated here. .

It is the region of the bananas as well. A bit fewer than in the past but the banana culture still has an important place in Jamaican economy. You will pass many banana plantations here.
You will not be surprised to learn that a number of celebrities for that reason have chosen to live here in this region. Rightly this may be called a piece of tropical paradise on earth.


And Great Houses too
Soon after we crossed the White River we meet the first Great House. In the past Harmony Hall was a large pimento plantation. (Pimento is an important ingredient for Jerk Chicken). At present it is a Mecca for art lovers. Many respected artist shows (and sells) his work here.
Immediately on the other side of the road Sir Harold's Lookout can be visited for one of the best views over the cliffs and the Caribbean Sea.


Battle fields
A few miles further we arrive in Rio Nuevo, a small village that played an important role in Jamaican history. The probably greatest battle in Jamaica took place between the English and the Spanish in June 1658.

The Spanish had abandoned themselves to the English already in 1655 but a great part of Spanish refused to deliver up their weapons. Headed by Don Cristobal Arnaldo de Ysassi the Spanish were troubling the English constantly and extra troops were carried from Cuba to try to take over the island from the English again. In vain, as it turned out later.
The Spanish landed in Rio Nuevo, fought for what they were worth but at the end they lost the battle and with that the island. After the battle many black Spanish and slaves draw into the mountains from where a guerilla was carried on but this turned out to be without any result either. There still is a monument in commemoration of this fact in the hills.

Just before Oracabessa the landscape becomes somewhat flatter. We will pass some beautiful beaches from which Boscobel Beach probably is the most well known.
Boscobel Beach offers an excellent all-inclusive resort, especially aimed at parents with children. And those children are the strength of Boscobel Beach. Really everything is done to please children, something that cannot be said about all-inclusive resorts.

The name is Bond
Once arrived in Oracabessa you will understand why the adventures of James Bond over and over again take place on one of those beautiful, tropical locations. Here Goldeneye is situated, the estate where Ian Flemming wrote many scenes for his books.
Goldeneye is not really a beautiful building, it is more or less a cottage. But once you entered the estate you will notice that it touches your imagination. After Flemmings death in 1964 Bob Marley and Chris Blackwell bought the estate and the last mentioned still is the owner of the property. Officially the estate is not open for the public but asking it very friendly sometimes there can be arranged something.


But there is more in Oracabessa. The houses, mainly raised in wood, give the village a wonderful radiation. And further there is an old fort and -how should it be otherwise- James Bond Beach.

And more celebrities
Further on along the A3 we come in Firefly, again an estate of a celebrity. Noël Coward deemed himself the lucky one. Looking from his cottage you will have a breathtaking view over the bay of Port Maria. The name Firefly did not just drop from the skies (or did it nevertheless?). The estate is named after the fireflies which give the sky around the estate an almost science-fiction look during the twilight. Contrary to Goldeneye Firefly is open for the public. Gramophone-record boss Chris Blackwell, who has renovated the place thoroughly, owns it.
On our way to Port Maria we will pass Galina Point and Little Bay. The Galina Lighthouse is attracting your attention immediately and just a bit south from that is Blue Harbour situated being the first home of Noël Coward.

The capital
Port Maria is the capital of St. Mary. This little, busy port once was the scenery of the first serious slave rebellion in 1760. Next to the church stands the monument of Tacky, leader of this revolt. Apart from the Mary Parish church built in 1861, Port Maria has not too much to offer.
Just for Annotto Bay near Grey's Inn the A3 turns and shoots into the interior direction Kingston. We however continue following the coast over the A4 direction Annotto Bay and Portland.

The interior of St. Mary shows a foretaste of the Blue Mountains, lying not so far away. The region is freakish and somewhat rougher than what we saw earlier. Surprising views alternate constantly and a trip through the hills is certainly recommended.
Two big plantations are still in use: Brimmer Hall Plantation just after Baileys Valley and the Sun Valley Plantation near Free Hill. The most important culture of these plantations still is the banana and both plantations have a rich history.

Most of the tourists only see St. Mary on passage to Port Antonio or the south of Jamaica but if you have some time left a somewhat longer stay in this region is certainly recommendable.