Trelawny: fascinating from hills to coast ...
We are driving further on in an easterly direction and are leaving St. James just after having past the Greenwood Great House. Almost unmarked we enter Trelawny.
The valley
The landscape is not very much difference from the landscape of St. James. Driving via the A1 we still find ourselves in the Queen of Spains Valley with the always-blue see on your left side and the always-green hills on the right. You will not be surprised having a splendid view over the valley and the Caribbean Sea from the hills too.
On a distance of only 40 km from Montego Bay we arrive in Falmouth, a small, lively town that is the capital of Trelawny. Once Falmouth was the most important harbour of exportation for the sugar-plantations in the neighborhood. The Barrett family (indeed those of Greenwood Great House) was governor here for a long time. The prosperity in that time gives a good expression in the many beautiful fronts of which Falmouth is rich in.
Immediately after arrival the St. Peter's Anglican Church is attracting attention. She was built in 1795 and at that time she was the first church in Trelawny.
Certainly the church is worth a visit although the building suffered a lot from bad maintenance and rough weather. For instance hurricane Gilbert destroyed the stained-glass windows and the organ. The graveyard on the backside contains more then 200- years old graves.
Just before the Water Square you'll cross Market Street. Here you can find the best preserved buildings out of the past. A number are raised in the characteristic "Georgian Style". The post office with her little aches of stone, the Methodist Manse and Barrett House are good examples hereof.
Back on Water Square there is a fountain in the middle of the roundabout. On this busy traffic-junction there once was a water-reservoir. Water from the neighboring Martha Brae River was stored here and brought to the surrounding houses by slaves.
Just after Water Square we reach the Albert George Market, from early in the morning until late in the night a seethed trade centre. If you like to be amongst local inhabitants this is a fine place for it.
Martha Brae
Shortly after leaving Falmouth you will cross a small bridge over the Martha Brae River. The legend tells that Martha Brae, an Awarak girl, was ordered by the Spaniards to guide them to a goldmine. She led the unsuspecting Spaniards to the entrance of a cave and used her magical strength to change the course of the river. The cave inundated and the Spaniards drowned miserably.
Goldmine, yes or no, at present The Martha Brae River is a favourite small river for rafting. The river rises deep in the hills of Cockpit Country and a boat trip is leading along many small settlements and the cave where the ghost of Martha Brae is still watching everyone.
About 10 km from the coast, in the hills and on top of a hill is Good Hope Estate situated, a marvellous renovated Great House, built in the 18th century. The situation itself is very special. The plantation still is in use and the stables are a home for about 15 horses. A tour on a horse is a special experience.
Mystic caves
A little further in the hills Windsor Caves are situated. The caves are not frequently visited but the ride over the poor road makes it worthwhile. And once you are in the caves you can, if you listen sharply, hear the Martha Brae River, which has its course under the caves. But be attended by a guide, you will not be the first one never returning from the caves.
In fact the coastal strip is not really rough. Several beaches are worthwhile. Burwood Beach, Silver Sands and Braco are good examples. For lovers of diving and fishing the village of Rock is a very good spot. The lagoon shows a scale of tropical fish-kinds and when you are lucky sharks and barracuda's can be seen.
Near the lagoon (Glistering Waters or Luminous Lagoon) it is resting nicely on the beach and when you have left a couple of hours, wait until it's dark.
Then have dinner at Rose's By The Sea and look how the lagoon undergoes a metamorphosis. During daytime it cannot be seen but during the night the microorganisms give the water a green glow. They produce a chemical reaction, like fire-flies do and that gives the lagoon a wonderful view.
Trelawny presents the visitor a lot of amusement. It is situated near Montego Bay end that makes this parish a good destination for a day without beach.
Moreover Falmouth and surrounding villages offer very good possibilities for an overnight-stay so that a longer stay is no problem at all.